A Park CC-2 chain checker or a tape measure can be used

A chain is made up of the inner plates, outer plates, rollers, and chain pins

One complete link consist of a both inner and out plates

Step 1. Turn the gauge on the CC-2 tool to zero and place both pins into the gap between the rollers

Step 2. The gauge on the CC-2 tool tells you just how worn the chain is. Replace if it’s at .75 or higher

Step 1. Using a tape measure, line up the 0″ mark directly with a chain pin

Step 2. Six complete links on a chain in good shape will measure in at 12″. Any more that 1/16″ needs replacing

Ride better through knowledge….

Cheers,

Jamie Warren

Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager

0800 444 144   /   09 257 4673

Today’s  bikes, as advanced as they may be, still seem to be able to creak just as bad and as often as those from many years ago. Sure, we may have cutting edge suspension, nearly maintenance free disc brakes and enough carbon components to make an F1 car jealous, but our state of the art machines will often have the most curious noises emanating from who knows where. How can this be? And what causes these god awful sounds that can make us want to abandon our expensive bikes in the bush and walk home?

Those noises, often referred to as a “creak”, are usually the result of two components shifting under load against each other. While it can sometimes be as simple as the seat post within the frame or the handlebar and stem clamp, it is more common to have the noise be a result of two threaded components not being properly torqued down to the manufacturer’s spec, allowing them to shift ever so slightly when you push hard on the pedals or lean into a turn. The tricky bit is that the part doesn’t actually have be loose to make the noise – the actual movement may be exceedingly small – which can mean that it may be difficult to track down. Add in a bit of dust, grime or water to the joint between the two and you’ll have the perfect environment to make what will quickly become the world’s most annoying sound. 

You may need to use a number of different tools in order to track down and remove that pesky noise, but a torque wrench and some grease will help you the most.

Safety warning: The good news is that creaks are often not a major issue, but rather just your bike telling you that it’s time to take a day off from riding and give it some love. The bad news is that that isn’t always the case, with the noise sometimes signalling that you have a cracked frame or a part that is close to complete failure. This is why it is important to not let those creaks and groans go unnoticed for long. Not to scare you, but that sound could quite literally be a warning that your head tube is about to depart from the rest of your bike, or that your lightweight two piece crankset is close to becoming a three piece unit. Spending a few minutes tracking down the sound may just save you from having to search for your front teeth mid-ride, or at the very least a long walk of shame out of the bush with your broken steed on your back. 

Finding the cause: The two most important weapons in fighting the war against noise are grease and knowing the proper torque, but often the most difficult part is tracking it down – it usually isn’t as easy as just listening to where the noise is coming from. Mountain bikes, especially those that are built around an aluminum frame, are really good at helping the sound to resonate from its origin. It may sure as hell sound like that tick is coming from your rear wheel, but don’t be surprised when you find that your stem was the source all along. While a creak can come from pretty much anywhere that a component is clamped or threaded into another part, including a front derailleur band or even a water bottle cage bolt, there are a few common offenders. For this reason it helps to know a some tricks on how to isolate the noise and make it easier to find…

Some helpful pointers before you begin: 

• Proper torque is key to eliminating creaks and groans. Check out Park Tool’s page on torque specs, and be sure to find out what your components require.
• Depending on the component, you may need to use grease, lube or Loc-tite to stop a noise. It is important to not only use the right one, but to also wipe away any extra that may be present after reinstallation. It will only attract grime and cause even more noise. 
• Tools you may need include a hex set, torx wrench, bottom bracket tool and a torque wrench, among others. 

Bottom bracket, crankarms and pedals: These are the most common offenders of them all. Head out onto a quiet side street and pedal hard against your brakes while standing up (standing will eliminate your saddle and post). You don’t have to go fast, it’s the torque from your legs that will cause noise, not how fast you’re going. Listen carefully for the noise during the hard downstroke of each pedal revolution – that is when it will be most likely to occur. Found the culprit? Start by crossing out the easiest causes first. Remove your pedals and give the threads on both the arms and on the spindles a cleaning, applying a dab of grease to each before reinstalling. Head out for another ride to see if the noise is still there, and if it is the next step is to remove the crankarms and bottom bracket from the frame. Spend a few minutes cleaning everything so that it looks as good as new – using a solvent will help. Be sure to read the manufacturer’s instructions before reinstalling the components, and also lay on a coating of grease to the crank spindle, as well as the threads on both the BB shell and BB cup. Remember that torquing each part to the recommended amount is key to eliminating noise. Often one of the trickiest to spot, chainring bolts can make quite a racket when slightly loose. Aluminum chainring bolts are even more prone to noise. If you’ve done all the steps above, but still have a noise when standing and pedalling under load, it may be the these little guys. Remove one at a time, cleaning and putting a small dab of grease on the threads before reinstalling. Never use Loc-tite on chainring bolts – it isn’t needed and will make life difficult down the road.

Spokes and nipples: When you hear a mechanic say that the “wheel has lost its tension” he is referring to the spokes becoming looser than is ideal, allowing the wheel to flex more under load. This is also likely to allow the spokes and nipples to shift slightly, even if they don’t feel loose to the touch, and it’s this shifting that can cause noise. Before re-tensioning wheel, something that should only be done by someone who has experience working with wheels, drip a small amount of lube into the nipple hole at the rim, as well as at the hub and where the spokes cross. A wax based lube will dry and leave a residue that will last much longer than a teflon based lube. Be careful not to let any drip onto your brake rotor.

Saddle and post: If you suspect that the noise may be coming from your saddle clamp or the post into the frame, pedal hard under load (dragging the brakes can help) while seated and then while standing. If the creak disappears when you are out of the saddle there is a good chance that it is one of the above. Begin by marking or measuring your saddle height before removing the post, followed by a good cleaning of the inside of the seat tube (including under the seat post clamp) and the post itself. Reinstall after applying a thin coating of grease or non-slip compound to the inside of the seat tube, post and under the seat post clamp. It also makes sense to remove the saddle from the post and clean the clamping surfaces as well.

Rear suspension: A coil spring that doesn’t have enough preload applied to it, letting it shift on the spring clip and collar, will also be prone to making noise. This is a good place to start, much easier than removing and greasing pivot bolts, if you push down on your bike’s rear suspension and it makes a groan. Simply grab the coil with your hand and see if it is loose enough to shift on the shock. If so, give the collar half a turn and retry. Repeat until it no longer moves, but keep in mind that coils springs should only have a few turns of preload on them. A small amount of lube between each end of the spring and the collars can also help, but be sure to wipe any extra away so as not to attract dirt. Pivot hardware can also make quite a bit of noise, although this is one that can be intimidating for the home mechanic, requiring the removal of the pivot axles and bolts, applying grease (as well as Loc-tite if required) and retightening to the exact specs provided by the manufacturer. While I would love to cover that in this Workshop Wednesday it would make for a rather long read. If you don’t feel up to it take it to your local shop and have them perform the service. It will be money well spent.

Derailleur pulley wheels: These little guys will often make a high pitched chirp that will sound as if a bird is following you on the trail. You’ll know if they are the culprit if the intervals between the chirps are quick and happen with consistant timing while you pedal. Remove one at a time, giving it a good clean before reinstalling. Most pulleys actually use a bushing that, while designed to run dry, will benefit from a very small amount of teflon based lube. If your’s use a sealed bearing you can use a hobby knife to lift the edge of the seal up to remove it and allow you to lube the bearing. Apply a small amount of blue Loc-tite to the threads on the derailleur cage to prevent the pulley bolt from coming loose down the road, but be careful to not let it run down onto or into the pulley wheel itself. Ride better through knowledge…. Cheers, Jamie Warren Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager 0800 444 144   /   09 257 4673

Wire-spoke wheels are simple, strong and lightweight, but each component depends upon its neighbours for protection. As long as the spokes are evenly tensioned and the rim is round, the force of an impact is distributed around the circumference of the wheel. As stress and damage cause individual spokes to loosen, the job is shouldered by fewer spokes in tension. If you let all the spokes go slack, then the job of supporting the rider and his or her botched landings goes to the few spokes that happen to oppose the vector of force – which usually results in broken spokes and game over.

Warning: Never use pliers to tighten a spoke nipple unless your wheel is only one ride away from destruction anyway and you have already stripped the working edges of the nipples.

What you’ll Need: - A proper spoke wench. For square nipples, use the type that grab at least three corners (Park Tool and DT Swiss make the best). - Some wheels use tiny hex nuts and others have special splined nipples.- If your wheels have bladed spokes, you may need a second, slotted wrench to keep the spoke from twisting. Mavic (top) and Shimano (lower left) are equipped with slotted wrenches. - Not shown, but handy, is a felt tip pen to mark the apex of each wobble.

Step one: Assess the wheel. Put the bike in a stand or simply turn it upside down and give the wheel a spin. Runout (sideways wobble) over one millimeter (1/16-inch) is worth fussing with. At or below that threshold is a perfectly acceptable wheel for disc-brake bikes. Finally, watch the rim as the wheel spins for any significant flat spots. The rim must be round to remain strong. A little flat spot can be nursed for a long time, but a big one usually means game-over and a rim replacement.

Step two: work around the wheel and squeeze each spoke. You are searching for either a loose pair or a loner that is significantly looser than the rest. It may help to squeeze the spokes of a good wheel to establish a base line. Tip: Plink each spoke with a fingernail and listen to the tone. All the spokes on one side of the hub should ring about the same. A significantly lower note signals a low-tensioned spoke.

Step three: Begin at the valve stem and work around the wheel, tensioning the slack spokes. Tighten the nipples one-half turn and then reverse about a quarter of a revolution. This unwinds the spoke and ensures that you are turning the threads each time. Bring up the slack spokes about 90 percent of the properly tensioned spokes and don’t worry about rim runout yet. If you have bladed spokes, grasp the bladed part close to the nipple with the slotted wrench and only tension the spokes one fourth revolution at a time.

Step four: With the bike in a stand, or up-side down, brace your hand against the frame or fork and place the spoke wrench just close enough to the side of the spinning rim to hear it grind against the largest wobble in the wheel. Rock the wheel back and forth until you find the spoke nearest to the apex of the wobble. Hold that spoke or mark the side of the rim with a felt tip pen.

Step five: Always work out rim runout in groups of three spokes. The middle spoke at the apex of the wobble is flanked by two spokes that originate from the opposite side of the hub. First loosen the spokes (or spoke) from the hub flange that is closest to the apex of the wobble about a half turn. Next, tighten the spokes (or spoke) that originate from the opposite side of the apex the same amount. Recheck the runout and repeat until it shrinks to about a millimeter and then move on to the next wobble. Work around the wheel in sequence until you have reduced each trouble spot to about a millimeter on both sides of the rim.

Step six. Recheck spoke tension with a feel or a plink test. If the spokes are closely matched, then you are done. If there are some low-tensioned spokes left, then begin at the valve stem and tension every spoke one-fourth turn. This will bring up the tension in the entire wheel and help push the rim outwards to stretch the errant ones.

Step seven: Give the spokes a final plink test and spin the wheel to assess that the runout is within a millimeter or so. If its within 85 to 90-percent of new, you are gold.

Ride better through knowledge….

Cheers,

Jamie Warren

Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager

0800 444 144    /    09 257 4673

Got a flat tyre and no tubes or patches? No matter how prepared you think you are or how many spare tubes and patches you pack in your bag, there comes a time when you end up facing a long walk out of the bush or are a long way from home on the road. It could happen on the quick after work spin where you forgot to throw another tube in your bag, or maybe during that epic death march that saw you and your friends make your way through every spare tube in the group – but all hope is not lost. By removing the flat tube, cutting it in half at the puncture and then tying it in a tight knot you may just be able to take a pass on the walk of shame. Keep in mind that this trail / road side repair is strictly designed to get you home and no further. Sure, it may hold air for days, but pedal carefully and be sure to replace the knotted tube with a new one once you get home.

What you’ll need:

• While this emergency repair doesn’t require a new tube or patch kit, you’ll still need a pump or canister to get back up and riding.

Start your self rescue mission by removing the tyre and tube, being sure to figure out exactly what it was that caused the flat in the first place – this trail side fix will only work once per tube so you want to be sure that you won’t flat again. Using your pump to inflate the tube sightly will make finding the puncture much easier. It’s time to perform a bit of surgery once you’ve found it…

If you carry a folding knife or swiss arms knife in your bag you can use that to cut the tube across its diameter exactly where the puncture is located. If not, you’ll need to use the teeth on your chain ring to do the job. If your bike uses a single ring and guide, lift the chain up and off of the ring. Take your time and be careful not to cut yourself as you do it. The straighter the cut, the more likely it will hold air when the time comes to test it out.

This is what it should look like if you’ve done it right. You’ll now need to tie the two ends together in a very tight knot that will hopefully be airtight…

It is important to have enough slack to easily tie the two ends together in a tight knot, but at the same time you don’t want to use so much tube length as to make reinstalling the now too-small tube back on the wheel difficult. Again, the tighter the knot is, the better chance you’ll have at getting out of the bush or back home.

Pump some air into the tube once you’ve finished tying your knot, putting enough in to allow you to hear if air is leaking at the new joint by holding it up to your ear. There is a good chance that you’ll have to undo your first few tries to get a tighter knot before it becomes air tight, but when done right it shouldn’t leak at all.

The ”repaired” tube will now have a much smaller diameter, making it a bit trickier to install than when you first put it in. Put one side of the tire onto the rim and then work the tube up and onto the rim. The tube should stretch enough that once it is onto the rim it will stay there on its own. Now install the other bead and pump up the tire to a bit less than your usual pressure. Remember that this repair is only to get you out of the bush or home  - go around any jumps or drops that you would usually hit and ride well under your limits, stopping frequently to check the tire’s pressure. This is especially true if you’ve repaired your front tyre.

Well I hope none of you are ever in this situation but helps to know ‘how to’ just in case!!

Ride better through knowledge….

Cheers,

Jamie Warren

Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager

0800 444 144   /   09 257 4673

Find Your Tyre Pressure Sweet Spot 

All race tuning, from Formula One, Road Bikes to Downhill, begins with an accurate tyre pressure assessment, but it is important to remember that even causal riders will benefit from finding the ideal tyre pressure to use.
Every rider and tyre combination has an air-pressure sweet spot, so use Jamie’s inflation tips to find your perfect pressure and improve your ride and shred.

Some tyre-pressure must-knows…

• Tyre pressure is measured in PSI, which stands for Pounds per Square Inch. It is a measurement of the pressure produced by one pound of force applied to an area of one square inch. Not that you need to know that to find your ideal tyre pressure, but now you do!
• Invest in a hand-held digital or dial pressure gauge to check your tires and keep it in your gear bag. Pressure values vary significantly between floor pumps and you won’t always be using yours. 
• Use a series of taps on the air valve to release pressure in a controlled manner (a small Allen wrench works well for Schrader valves).
• Write it down: Pro racers keep a written log of tire pressure, bike-fit and suspension settings, but you don’t have to go that far. Write your starting pressures on the rim beside the valve with a Vivid.
• Tyre manufacturers emboss their sidewalls with minimum and maximum pressures that you may or may nor agree with–so consider yourself warned.
• Higher tyre pressures do not always result in easier and faster rolling speeds. This is because a harder tyre will want to deflect off of obstacles instead of letting the tyre conform to the ground, absorb the impact, and roll over it without losing as much speed. Don’t believe me? Picture yourself on a skateboard, rolling down a smooth road – you’ll have no troubles. Now do the same thing on a rough road, or one with a bit of gravel on it, and you’ll have much more trouble. This is because the skateboard’s wheels are very hard and want to stop when they pass over even the slightest rough patch. This is why too much air can actually create more rolling resistance. 
• Tyre pressure is not only dependent on the type of tyre you are using, but also the terrain that you’re riding. Road , smooth and faster trails can be ridden with slightly more air pressure than a rougher trail. Taking the time to figure out what works best on the trails that you ride most often will only make your rides even better.
• Different tyres, even of the same width, often work better at different air pressures. If you’ve switched to another brand or model of tyre it will pay dividends to experiment with tyre pressure, even if it is only a few PSI more or less than what you were running previously.

Ride better through knowledge….

Cheers,

Jamie Warren

Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager

0800 444 144  /   09 257 4673

Those who travel with their bikes, or anyone who has had to borrow a bike in a pinch will understand that knowing a few basic measurements, like saddle height and the distance from the handlebar to the saddle, could save a lot of setup time and prevent some mid-ride frustration. In this Workshop Wednesday, Natural High covers six basic measurements that every rider should memorize (or keep handy) that will make it possible to set up a reasonably correct sized bike to fit your body and riding style.

Use these measurements to get your personal bike perfect after shipping, or to adjust an unfamiliar bike to fit you as closely as possible. Remember that small differences in geometry and component spec can make big changes in your position on a different bike. In this situation, Natural High’s setup guides will get you close to optimum in the shortest amount of time. If you require perfection to ride a borrowed bike for one day, don’t expect your friends to circle around in the parking lot for an hour waiting for Mister Fuss Butt. Consult a qualified bike fit specialist.

What you’ll need: - Measuring tape - A Vivid or other permanent marking pen - Sturdy writing paper that will stand the test of time in your wallet - Your personal bike, set up exactly how you like it (you’ll be measuring this) - Positive, super attitude Step one: Get a pen and paper ready and find a place where you can prop your bike up on level ground. The level ground part is important. Step two Step two detail Step two: Measure the distance from the imaginary center of the bottom bracket axle to the center of the top of the saddle. You will have to guess where the middle of the saddle is, or pick the point where an imaginary line through the center of the seatpost intersects the top of the saddle. Write this down. Step three: Measure your saddle setback from the bottom bracket center to compensate for different seat tube angles. Use the measuring tape as a plumb line from the tip of the saddle. Mark the crankset with a Vivid where the edge of the tape passes behind the bottom bracket axle and then measure the distance horizontally from the mark to the center of the bottom bracket – write this down. First, set your proper seat height, and then use this measurement to establish if the saddle needs to be moved fore or aft on the seat post. I would not recommend worrying about this unless you plan to race XC/Road or ride trail for extended distances. Step three – first part Step three – second part Step four:Measure the distance between the nose of the saddle and the center of the handlebar where it passes through the stem and jot it down. In most cases, you won’t be able to change out your stem, so try to slide the saddle on the seat post to get this distance as close as possible. Your bike will steer and handle better if you get this measurement right, and in most cases, it’s better to abandon the step-three measurement in favor of step four. Step Four Step five: Most bikes have too many spacers between the stem and fork steerer tube, but in this case, it’s a good thing. Measure from the ground to the handlebar and switch the spacers around to achieve a bar height that approximates your own bike.  Tip: A more accurate bar height reading is to measure the top of the saddle to the ground and subtract that number from the bar height. This compensates for various BB heights, but because they only vary by ¾ of an inch, it’s a moot point for a one-day ride. Step Five Step six: Before you set out, check these three component adjustments. Measure where the distance between the kink in the brake lever blade and the inboard edge of the grip. Memorize the angle of the brake levers by sight, and count how many clicks you use to set your clipless-pedal engagement tension (providing there is such an adjustment). Tip: Most shifters work best when angled about the same as, or a little steeper than the brake levers. Step Six – A Step Six – B Step Six – C Ride better through knowledge…. I’m off for a brew! Cheers, Jamie Warren Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager 0800 444 144         /              09 257 4673

Today on the Workshop Wednesday we’ll tackle a quick job that only requires one tool: removing and installing pedals. With the right tool and technique you should be able to finish this one in only a few minutes. Keep reading you’ll find a step by step instructions with a few tips that could save the skin on your knuckles!!

Replacing your pedals should be a relatively simple job when you compare it to other mechanical work that you may have to perform on your bike. After all, it only requires one tool and there are only a few steps. So why is it that a lot of riders run into trouble when they have a go at removing their pedals? What seems like it should be a quick a simple job can sometimes turn into a nightmare of bloody knuckles and confusion. Below you’ll find out how to avoid going down that road when the time comes to do this job.

Step By Step Pedal Removal And Installation Instructions
Tools needed:Pedal wrench (a 15 mm open end wrench or 6/8 mm allen key will work with some pedals as well), and grease

All you’ll need is a pedal wrench and some grease

You will find it much easier to work your way through this job if you keep your bike right side up on its wheels as you follow these steps. When talking about loosening or tightening the pedals I’ll use the terms clockwise and counter clockwise as if you were facing the side that you’re working on.

Before you go ahead and tackle this job, you’ll need to familiarize yourself with how to loosen your pedals. Sounds easy enough, right? The curve ball is that the left pedal (non-drive side) is left hand thread, meaning that you turn it clockwise to loosen it from the crank arm. The right pedal (drive side) is standard right hand thread, turn it to the left to loosen. One more time: Turn the non-drive pedal clockwise to loosen it, turn the drive side pedal counter clockwise to loosen it. 

Some pedals have four wrench flats which will make it easier to position the pedal wrench in the correct spot. Some also have a 6 mm or 8 mm allen access in the backside of the spindle. These pedals only have two wrench flats

1.Unlike a lot of other repair jobs, I find this one much easier to perform with the bike on the ground. The reason for this is that it sometimes takes a good hard push to break the pedals free and sometimes a stand has enough flex to make this difficult. Also, having the bike on the floor should give you much better leverage as you can use your body weight to help you.

By aligning the crank and pedal wrench in this position you’ll be able to use your body weight to help you break the pedal free

2.Let’s start with the drive side pedal. Align your drive side crank arm so that it is at the 3 o’clock position or close to it. Some pedals will have four wrench flats (located on the spindle, just outboard of the crank arm) that will make it easier to position the pedal wrench in such a way that will make it easier to loosen. Yours may only have two opposing wrench flats. Ideally the wrench should be close to parallel, if just above, the crank arm. Because you are turning the wrench counter clockwise to loosen the pedal, this will allow you to push down from above and use your body weight to break it free. Be weary of hitting your knuckles on the chain rings or chain guide as the pedal loosens. Once it is free you can spin it all the way off, being sure not to lose the pedal washer if there is one. 

Align the drive side pedal in the 3 o’clock position

3.Now we’ll remove the non-drive side pedal. Turn your crank arm so that it is at the 9 o’clock position or close to it. Again, this will allow you to apply more leverage once you place the pedal wrench in the same way that you did when you removed the drive side pedal. Turn the wrench down and clockwise, using your body weight to help. When it’s loose spin it all the way off, taking note not to lose the pedal washer if one is present. 

Turn the non-drive side pedal to the 9 o’clock position

4.Before reinstalling your pedals, take a minute to clean any dirt out of both the crank and pedal threads. Apply a small amount of grease to the pedal threads before you begin the install as it will make it easier to remove them again down the road and minimize the chance of any creaks developing. 

5.Always begin threading your pedals back in by hand to reduce the chances of damaging the threads. Turn the drive side pedal clockwise to tighten. Turn the non drive side pedal counter clockwise to tighten. Finish tightening the pedals using your pedal wrench. Always be sure to double check that you’ve tighten them, as losing a pedal could be a disaster! Ride better through knowledge….see you out there?!?! Cheers, Jamie Warren Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager 0800 444 144  /  09 257 4673

Today’s Workshop Wednesday takes a closer look at chain lube. If you think nothing of spraying your chain with WD40 then this is the Workshop Wednesday Tip is for you! Read on and  you’ll find information on:

• Which types of lube to use for your conditions 
• What never to put on your chain 
• How to properly lube your chain

For a lot of riders it is a victory if they simply have some sort of lube on their chain, but using the right kind of lube for the conditions at hand can actually make a big difference to how your drivetrain performs. Applying the wrong kind of lube can cause all sorts of problems, from a gummed up and slow shifting drivetrain, to one that won’t be quiet, but the end result is always accelerated wear that will cost you time and money in the long run. But that is only half the battle… How you lube your chain can have just as big of an effect, if not more so, than what lube you are using. You won’t be doing yourself any favors if you are going to town with a can of spray lube and have shaky hands from downing too many energy drinks. In fact, you’re doing more harm than good by overdoing it as excess lube will only attract dirt and grime. The key is to only apply the right amount in the right places.

Teflon based lubes are by far the most common type of bicycle chain lube used, and for good reason. The name Teflon is actually DuPont’s brand name for what is known as “PTFE” in the chemistry world, or polytetrafluoroethylene. Teflon has an incredibly low coefficient of friction when used between two solid objects like chain plates and rollers and is used to lube much more demanding mechanics than our simple bicycle chains. In order for the PTFE to properly penetrate into the inner workings of a bicycle chain, as well as stick around long enough to be useful while still having self cleaning properties, it can be mixed with many kinds of oils and solvents depending on the conditions that it has been designed to perform best in. The general rule of thumb is that the thicker the lube is, the longer it will last in wet conditions, but the stickier and messier it will be. If you live in a rainy environment like we do here in NZ! You will be best off using a thicker lube because it will last much longer and not require as many reapplications. If your home trails and roads are dry and dusty, then you’ll be much better served to use a thinner lube that won’t collect as much dirt that would gum up your drivetrain and create a mess like a thick lube used in that sort conditions would.

We used Park’s Synthetic Lube with PTFE as it works great for the dry weather Spring that we’re coming into The other common option are wax based lubes. Just like Teflon chain lubes, wax lubricant can come in many different kinds of mixtures depending on the conditions that it is intended to be used in. Wax based lubes are generally thought of as a cleaner option to Teflon, but they have some drawbacks of their own. While they certainly collect less dust and dirt, you must be very conscious of how much wax lube you are using because it does have a tendency to build up and create a mess. Picture big globs of wax caught up between your pulley wheels and derailleur cage and you’ll get the idea. Wax lubes also require the chain to be quite clean before you apply them for best results, and even then they won’t last as long as their Teflon based competition. There are all sorts of lubes and concoctions that you shouldn’t use on your chain, most of them are either two thin or two thick. One example is the ever popular WD40… this is not a lubricant for bicycle chains! WD40 is far too thin and acts as a solvent that actually strips the chain of any lube that may be present. Use WD40 to free up old and rusty parts, but not to lube your chain!! You are far better off heading down to your local shop to pick up some proper lube designed for where you ride. If you’re not sure what to get it is worthwhile to ask. Lubing your chain I know a lot of you are happy just to have a chain that doesn’t squeak and scare away fellow riders, but by properly applying lube to your chain you can limit the amount of dirt and trail grime that it picks up, which will increase chain life and cost you less money down the road. Oh, and as a side benefit your bike will also be quieter, shift better, and you’ll be less likely to be that one annoying guy who’s bike can be heard from a kilometer away. Below is how I like to lube my chain, your method may differ and there are countless ways to do it, but the goal is always the same: to apply the right amount of lube to the right places.Step by step instructions Step by step instructions Step 1. Begin by shifting the chain to the middle ring and a middle cog for a straight chain line. Use a rag to clean any dirt or grime that may be on your chain before you add more lube Step 2. I prefer to use a drip bottle as it is far more precise than an aerosol can Step 3. Apply lube sparingly to each roller on both the top and bottom sides of the chain while pedaling in reverse Step 4. Keeping it in the same gear while you pedal the bike for a few minutes to let the lube penetrate into the chain’s inner workings Step 5. Use a clean rag to wipe off any and all chain lube that may be on the outside of the chain, including the side plates and the derailleur’s pulley wheels. Extra lube will only attract dirt and create a mess. The only lube that you want on your chain is in the rollers and between the chain plates. Ride better through knowledge…. I’m off for a brew! Cheers, Jamie Warren Bike Mechanic  /  Fleet Manager 0800 444 144   /  09 257 4673

Today’s Wednesday Workshop Bike Pro Tip covers details how to clean and repack sealed cartridge bearings in a typical headset. The technique can be used to service almost any sealed cartridge bearing – say, in a hub, a bottom bracket, or a suspension pivot. In this feature, we remove the bearings to service them, but as long as you have clear access to the seals and can safely and thoroughly clean the working area in and around the bearings, you can remove the seals and repack the bearings while they are in place.

Step 1 - Remove front wheel before you get started. Unscrew the stem cap, loosen the stem’s pinch bolts and then slide fork out of the frame. (I straddle the fork over the down tube).

Step 2 - If the lower race didn’t come off with the fork, remove it now. Remove the upper bearing and wipe the head tube sockets clean.

Step 3 - Use solvent or spray degreaser to clean all the headset parts. Wear safety glasses or some sunglasses when working with solvents.

Step 4 - CAREFULLY, find the outer edge of the seal and pry it out of its groove.NEVER touch the inner lip of the seals with a tool.

Step 5 - Repeat the previous steps with the upper bearing and then use solvent or spray degreaser to remove all grease and grime from the bearing. Spin the bearing to help free up the gunk.

Step 6 - Dry the bearings and then pack them full of lightweight synthetic grease. Spin the bearing to get the grease around the balls. Wipe the seal clean and then gently snap it back into place with thumb pressure. Leave some excess grease, so that the seal forces it into the bearing as it snaps into place.

Step 7 - Grease and replace the seal of the upper bearing and then, while you are at it, use your greasy fingers to apply a thin coat on the head tube sockets.

Step 8 - The inner diameter of the lower race is tapered on one side to mate with the fork’s crown-race fitting. Make sure that the taper faces down and then slide the lower bearing onto the fork’s steerer tube.

Step 9 - Before you slide the steerer tube into the frame, make sure that the brake hoses and shift housings are all headed in the right direction.

Step 10 - Slide the upper bearing, curved-side-facing-down, over the steerer tube and into the frame, then slip the bearing’s wedge-collar (if it has one) and the dust-cap over it to hold the fork in place. There should always be one spacer between the cap and the stem.

Step 11 - To adjust the headset, screw the cap bolt in until it is snug and then back it out one fourth turn. There should be no play in the headset, but it should spin smoothly. Torque the stem clamp bolts to the recommended value and then recheck all bolts again before you ride.

Ride better through knowledge….see you out there?!?!

Cheers,

Jamie Warren

Bike Mechanic / Fleet Manager

0800 444 144        /             09 257 4673